1 July 2024

Atmospheres la Stüa: barbecued meat with mountain flavors

In Gorizia just like on the Dolomites!

Today I am in Gorizia, a city rich in history and culture. Starting from Piazza della Vittoria, I walk along Via Rastello, one of the oldest and most charming streets in the center: with its historic buildings it takes me to Piazza Sant'Antonio, where I decide to stop and eat at the Atmosfere la Stüa restaurant.

Locals will undoubtedly remember that here, there used to be a lamp store called "Atmosfere." And yes, it belonged to Silvia’s parents. She’s the current owner of the new business: in 2016, thanks to a real enlightenment, she decided to change course, turning the place into a wine bar/brewery. But it doesn't end there because two years ago, together with her husband Stefano, she chose to renovate the space again, adding food and wine to the restaurant.

The place has a modern style, and the patio stands under the foliage of a giant plane tree. Inside, the mountain air prevails, already recalled by the name "la Stüa": everything from the furniture to walls and wooden tables alternates with a gray color that reminds me of Dolomite rocks.

Bottles of French and local wines pair with international cuts of meat, displayed in open cold rooms scattered around the restaurant. Speaking of rooms, the restaurant accommodates two of them, divided by the entrance; in the latter, the counter and the small kitchen (an open one, too) remain the undisputed sovereigns. One room is dedicated to the restaurant, the other to the bistro, where you can enjoy a good glass of wine paired with a special focaccia and refined cured meats.

I came here at lunchtime. These are the very first muggy hot days in this rainy summer, ergo I took a seat outside... and then it was an open fire of dishes! I started with their signature appetizer, which is tempura squash blossoms stuffed with truffle cheese and melted Osvaldo ham.

I continued my meal with a taste of their summer dishes, which is a recently added option to their menu that will make fans of light but tasty options very happy. A spectacular organic barley with fasolari, scallops, and shrimp tartare, which was good, the right amount of flavorful and spicy.

As the risotto lover I am, I couldn't pass up a "taste" of cacio e pepe risotto (with Sichuan, Cubebe, and pink peppers) with summer truffle.

Now we finally enter the realm of Stephen's passion: barbecue! Who am I to stop him from firing up his charcoal oven (a Josper one) and slipping in a mind-bendingly marbled piece of Cowboy Steak? After forty minutes, there it was before my eyes (and taste buds), juicy and caramelized to perfection.

To end my day in Gorizia, I enjoyed an excellent coffee from the Torrefazione Goriziana (local roasting company), the perfect ending to an amazing meal. It’s always better if the beans are processed by a local roastery.

Oh, you are no doubt wondering by looking at the pictures. Yes, it is indeed him, the winner of 4 Ristoranti! 🙂

It's time for me to head back to Trieste, but if you're passing through here, remember to go to Gorizia and a stop here. You won't regret it, Miss's word.

Ph. Luca De Angelini

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